The Pandemic & Power Imbalances

Photography by Zeng Wu; Fashion Editor/Stylist: Liu Xiao; Hair Stylist: Chiao Chenet; Makeup Artist: Ossiel Ramos Abarca; Models: Hoyeon Jung, Xie Chaoyu, Yoon Young Bae

Garment workers have always been essential workers. The pandemic just showed us how essential they really are. As tempting as it is to blame all the current problems in the industry on the pandemic, the truth is they existed long before COVID-19 ever hit. This unprecedented time has magnified the industry’s dysfunctions to a point where they can no longer be ignored. And if we don’t change our approach, they will persist even after the pandemic ends. Danielle, Lauren, and Catherine explore the unequal power dynamics that exist in the industry and what needs to happen going forward in the latest episode of Unspun. 

The way the supply chain operates is indicative of unequal power dynamics. Those involved with the manufacturing process have the least power and, as a result, have received much of the burden associated with the pandemic. This was exemplified by the cancellation of orders. And because factories weren't getting paid, garment workers weren't getting compensated for their labor. 

Garment Workers are Caught in the Middle

Even before the pandemic, there were signs of an economic recession. The fashion industry has been operating in a landscape defined by oversaturation and overproduction. Fast fashion brands were putting out a new season each week. Luxury brands were burnt out from tripling their number of seasons only to see their designs sold at discount prices a few months later. The way we were operating was not sustainable. 

Concerns regarding labor conditions are unfortunately familiar to the industry, as seen by the Nike child labor scandal in the 90s and the collapse of Rana Plaza in 2013. Prior to the pandemic, manufacturers had been in a difficult position due to the fast pace of trends. In order to keep up with demand, manufacturers have had to produce more products at faster rates and lower prices. The effects are transferred to garment workers who are then subjected to long working hours for low wages in unsafe environments.  

Additionally, manufacturers have had to balance the demands of brands with calls for sustainability. The industry has been trending towards adopting a more sustainable model and asking manufacturers to follow suit. However, this move ignored the reality that components essential to the fashion industry’s current business model (i.e., overconsumption and overproduction) are inconsistent with sustainability. Manufacturers were being pressured to simultaneously fulfill demands associated with this unsustainable production model and brands’ sustainability conscience. 

Is Sustainability the Answer?

Many brands that recognized the importance of ethical and responsible purchasing and production practices as a key to sustainability were better equipped to respond to the effects of the pandemic. Other brands who were still stuck in the old ways of doing business were completely thrown off by the shocks to the supply chain. Legacy brands like JCrew, Neiman Marcus, Brooks Brothers, Lucky Brand, and JCPenny all filed for bankruptcy. Sometimes the only buyers in sight were mall landlords also facing their own defunct reality. Sustainability is not just a matter of environmental and labor concerns, but also necessary for brands to develop resiliency and remain competitive. 

However, only a fraction of “sustainable” brands actually employ responsible purchasing practices as part of their sustainability framework. The remaining brands inevitably perpetuate unequal relationships throughout the supply chain. 

Solutions Take a Systems Approach

The pandemic presents an opportunity for the fashion industry to change its way of doing business. The future is inevitably going to look different. Consumers are more aware of the labor and environmental concerns occurring in the industry and are holding brands to higher standards. To address consumers’ concerns and truly enact change, we must change the way we approach problems. 

Check out the latest episode of Unspun to learn how we might address the systems dictating the fashion industry as opposed to just the symptoms of its dysfunctions.